Ben and Dawn’s Guide to Chicago
Things to see, eat, buy, etc. It is a big city, so we decided to focus on a few neighborhoods in which we love, work, live and play.
LINCOLN PARK
The Alfred Caldwell Lily Pool: Located south of Fullerton Avenue, directly north of the Lincoln Park Zoo. A landscape masterpiece and a perfect place for a stroll or a smooch.
Lincoln Park Zoo: This free zoo is right in Lincoln Park itself. Located off Lake Shore Drive at the Fullerton Parkway exit.
Green City Market: This is a dream of a farmers market. located at the south end of Lincoln Park between Clark and Stockton Drive (approximately 1790 N. Clark). Wednesday and Saturday from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m.
DOWNTOWN
The Loop
EXPLORESplash in the water at the Crown Fountain and make faces in the Bean (aka Cloud Gate) in Millennium Park. Don’t miss these, they are some of the best public art in the world.
Put your feet in the stream at the back of the Lurie Garden, a little stretch of native prairie in the heart of the City.
“City is a Garden” exhibit at the Chicago Tourism Center (Ben helped curate the show). 72 E Randolph St.
Art Institute of Chicago: Located in Grant Park. Free Thursday evenings from 5-8pm. 111 South Michigan Avenue, on the corner of Michigan and Monroe streets.
Chicago Cultural Center: The old public library building at the corner of Michigan and Randolph is always good for a respite and some exhibits.
EAT
Head to the 7th floor of Macy’s for a little bit of everything.... salads, burgers, Ben’s favorite noodle shop, etc.
Patty Burger: Decent, reasonable burgers near the Art Institute... 72 E Adams St (between Clark St & Dearborn St)
For picnics, head to Provenance (53 East Lake Street) or the Downtown Farm Stand on Randolph for sandwiches and then off to Millennium Park. If its Thursday, head to the farmers market in Daly Plaza.
Caffe Baci: Not cheap but tasty, this chain has good soups, salads, sandwiches and pizza, plus gelato. Pretend you work in an office downtown! At 20 N. Michigan, and again at 322 South Michigan, across from Milennium Park. See also: Cosi (116 S. Michigan, 30 W. Washington), which is a little less pricey, and Lavazza (27 W. Washington), which has excellent coffee.
Pitsfield Cafe: old style diner food, open breakfast/lunch mon-sat, 55 E Washington st. Ben’s favorite lunch counter.
Atwood Cafe: One of our favorites, a reliable and comfy hotel place, kinda fancy. Site of many early dates. SW corner of Washington and State.
The Gage: Upscale post-museum fare. 24 South Michigan Avenue
DRINK
The Gage has great, if spendy, cocktails. Aside from that, a lot of places cater to the after work crowd. You might check out a hotel bar, or buy a cold bottle at Provenance, stick it in a paper bag and head to the park.
SHOP
State Street: Here you will find Macy’s, Loehmann’s, Filene’s Basement, Maxx, and the incredible endless shoe selection of Nordstrom’s Rack, as well as a number of national chains like H&M.
Block 37: New mall, featuring Anthropologie, ZARA, the Puma store, and many other shiny new places. In the basement, don’t miss Beard Papa, featuring AMAZING CREAM PUFFS!
WALK
Everywhere. Then, if you’re exhausted, maybe take a cab back.
Further North (Magnificent Mile)
EXPLORE
Museum of Contemporary Art: One of Dawn’s favorites in the city. Ben thinks it has the best gift shop. Located at 220 East Chicago Ave, one block east of Michigan Ave. Free Tuesdays.
You could go to the Sears “Willis” Tower and shell out for the experience of standing on the “Ledge,” a glass box hovering over the city streets, 103 floors up. Or just head to the John Hancock Building, and rather than pay to go to the observation deck, get a drink and enjoy the view at the Signature Room.
Take children to the Children’s Museum at Navy Pier. If you go on the Navy Pier ferris wheel, be aware, you will hear annoying voice-over and Coke ads the whole time.
SHOP
The “Magnificant Mile”, Michigan Ave, from the river north to the Water Tower. The French call it “leche vitrine”... There are a ton of superfancy label based boutiques, as well as the Water Tower Place Mall and the 900 Shops(900 Michigan Ave.). According to Ben its neither a mile nor magnificent.
EAT
In the Water Tower Mall, there are a million places to eat. Our favorites are Freshii and Wow Bao, both fun to say, one on each end of the ground floor.
ALONG THE BLUE LINE
“The Crotch” Damen/North/Milwaukee
EATEarwax: More delicious than in sounds, especially for vegetarians. Circus themed! (1561 N. Milwaukee Ave, just south of Damen and North)
Big Star: An overnight sensation, for good reason. If its busy get tacos at the to-go counter on the right. (on Damen, just a block south of the El at Damen Stop on Blue Line)
Handlebar: Veggie-Friendly bicycle themed restaurant/bar. (2311 West North Ave.)
There’s a ton of interesting restaurants around here, just stroll around...
DRINK
Filter: 1373-75 N Milwaukee Ave. Ground zero for hipster Chicago. Good for lunch, too.
There’s lots of bars here as well. Rodan is very nice... Then there is The Violet Hour (1520 N Damen Ave) which has gotten national attention for its snobby cocktails. Ben objects to this place, but Dawn thinks you will be very impressed... just wear your nice shoes.
Danny’s: Cozy, with great music, strong drinks and good specials. 1951 W. Dickens (just off the east side of Damen, a few blocks north of Armitage). Cash only.
SHOP
Myopic Books: Dawn in heaven. Lots and lots and lots of used books of all kinds. 1564 N. Milwaukee Ave.
Reckless Records: They used the original location of this shop to film “High Fidelity.” Great new and used finds. 1532 N. Milwaukee Ave.
The Boring Store: Dave Eggers’ Spy Store/Literacy Center. 1331 N. Milwaukee Ave.
There are a lot of places to shop for fun clothes and shoes in this area, from great resale places to Urban Outfitters to upscale boutiques. Generally, the fancier places are along Damen, while a stroll along Milwaukee will offer more variety.
Quimby’s: one of the best selections of comic books and graphic novels in the country. 1854 W. North Ave.
WALK
“The Hipster Triangle Walk” -- Milwaukee-Division-Damen. People watching galore.
EXPLORE
Nope, just shop.
Around the Blue Line Western Stop
EATIrazu: What? You’ve never had Costa Rican food? The oatmeal shake is to die for. Try the steak sandwich (ask for avocado!), the patacones with mojo, the veggie salad, ceviche, or if you’re hungry, the casado. For breakfast, the rice scrambled with eggs is amazing and unique. (1865 Milwaukee Ave. From Western Blue Line, walk a few blocks south on Milwaukee ave. On Left). Cash only.
Margie’s Candies: Sundaes since 1921. Where Ben’s great aunts used to have dates. (1961 N. Western, SW Corner of Armitage and Western).
Lazo’s Tacos: Tasty Mexican food. Dawn and Ben ate here with Liz and Dan just before that fateful first smooch. Open late. (NE Corner of Western and Armitage, just north of the Blue Line stop).
DRINK
Ipsento Coffee: Cozy place for a pick me up. Try the signature drink w/cayenne pepper. (2035 North Western Ave., a couple of blocks north of the Blue Line Western Stop on Western, east side of street).
WATCH?
Odd Obsession Video: So you want to curl up and watch a movie on your laptop? This place has an AMAZING selection of films, and the guys there would be delighted to help you find something just right. 1822 Milwaukee.
Around the Blue Line Division Stop
A visit to this cool museum and a drink at this great bar would be a wonderful way to spend an afternoon.
INTUIT Gallery: the Center for Intuitive and Outsider Art. See www.art.org for exhibitions. 756 N. Milwaukee Avenue
Matchbox: So tiny! Get the ginger gimlet. Get dinner next
door at the Silver Palm. 770 Milwaukee, SW Corner of Chicago and Milwaukee.
LOGAN SQUARE
(technically along the Blue Line, but we live here, so it gets its own category)
EAT
Taqueria Moran: Conveniently located across the street from the California Blue Line stop, try the tacos al pastor, the caldo de pollo, and the fresh juice! Don’t miss the freshly pickled vegetables on the tables and the green salsa that comes with the chips.
Lula: For an unforgettable brunch, a delicious lunch or a fancypants farm-fresh dinner. A little more upscale (at dinner) but still very kid-friendly. 2537 N Kedzie, across the Boulevard from the Logan Square Blue Line stop.
Longman and Eagle: Newly, plaidly, chicly. Hipster-luxe gastropub open for lunch and dinner. Dawn wanted to hate it but dang, the food is good. The bar has an incredible selection of whiskeys, plus some inventive mixed drinks. Play mustache bingo! Less kid-friendly. 2657 N Kedzie Ave, northeast of the Logan Square stop, on the other side of the obelisk.
Cozy Corner: A real Chicago diner experience, with solid, reasonably priced food, huge servings and the friendliest counter lady on the planet. Open early for breakfast. Just north of the California stop (come down the stairs and go left, it’s next to the produce shop).
Conoce Mi Panama: Just around the corner from our house, incredibly tasty Panamanian delights. Try the fried yuca.3054 W Armitage Ave
Real Tenochticlan: Upscale Mexican food, kinda pricey but good for a shared plates snack. Jesse liked the topless Azteca ladies in the murals that decorate the place, Ben and Dawn like the white mole and tacos al carbon. Homemade corn tortillas. 2451 N Milwaukee Ave, just south of Sacramento and Milwaukee, halfway between Logan Square and California stops.
DRINK
Weegees: Like you stepped into the 1920’s. Carefully crafted drinks, great ambiance, and shuffleboard!!! 3659 W Armitage Ave (stay on the Armitage bus, it’s just west of Central Ave on the south side of the street).
Revolution Brewing Co.: New, cavernous space serving craft beers brewed on the premises. If you’re there to eat, skip the pizza and order a burger or share some of the delightful appetizers. Crowded on weekend nights. 2323 N Milwaukee Ave
New Wave Coffee: The color scheme in here makes Dawn mad, but the big 80’s-era TV where you can play Super Mario Bros is pretty neat, and it’s a good place to have a coffee and kill some time. 3103 W. Logan Blvd, just across Milwaukee on the east side of the obelisk.
The Whistler: More hipster cocktails. Nice patio, and live music or DJs a lot of nights. 2421 N Milwaukee Avenue
SHOP
Wolfbait and B-girls: Locally handmade Chicago wares, mostly pricey but a good place to snag fun weird jewelry and cute souveniers.
Fleur: Romantic, pretty flower shop with some cute gift items. Worth peeking in if you’re in the neighborhood, just for the good design.
Both shops are at 3149 W Logan Blvd, around the corner from Lula.
WALK
The Boulevards!
EXPLORE
The Bloomingdale Trail: Access through the broken fence in the little park at Albany and Bloomingdale. Just watch for broken glass and dangerous trash, and don’t get arrested! We’d miss you at the wedding. And... You didn’t hear it from us.
PILSEN
A great afternoon in Pilsen would be taking the Pink Line to Damen, checking out the museum, then heading back east along 18th street for lunch, coffee, pastry and window shopping, and returning via train from the 18th St. stop.
EXPLORE
National Museum of Mexican Art: The national museum, it is gorgeous, very well curated, and free! Great gift shop, too. See nationalmuseumofmexicanart.org for current exhibition info. One block north and one block east of the Damen Pink Line stop. 1852 West 19th Street.
EAT
Mundial Cocina Mestiza: Bien fancy Mexican food, this place has lost a some of its “best place ever!!!” luster since changing owners a few years ago, but it still has fresh seafood and a nice, innovative menu. 1439 W 18th St, just east of the 18th St. Pink Line stop on the north side of the Street.
Los Comales #3: The third outpost of a local chain. The torta milanesa will make you pass out from joy. Yummy pickled carrots on the tables, too. 1544 W 18th St, at 18th and Ashland.
See also, Mi Cafetal, 1519 W 18th St, for more good tortas.
Nuevo Leon Bakery: One of the best Mexican bakeries in a city with a lot of Mexican bakeries. 1634 W 18th St
DRINK
Efebina’s: Dawn is in love with this cafe, where you can get a supertasty lunch, great coffee, and check your email on one of the communal computers. Run by Mexico City expats. 1640 S Blue Island Ave, just after Ashland, turn left on Blue Island and walk about a block northeast of 18th.
Jumping Bean: A little crowded, but nearer to the 18th St. Pink Line stop, more solid sandwiches and salads, pizzas and pannini, and coffee, coffee, coffee! Plus fresh juice. 1439 W 18th St, 2 blocks east of Ashland on the South side of the street.
SHOP
Textile Discount Outlet: Must be seen to be believed. A wonderland of fabric, ribbon, trim, upholstery. Endless rooms of endless bolts. This is to fabric as the Seminary Co-op is to books. 2121 W 21st St--Street, not Place!-- one block south and a few blocks west of the Pink Line Damen stop.
There are a number of nice vintage stores, accessories shops and botanicas along 18th street.
HYDE PARK/ U.CHICAGO CAMPUS
EAT
Medici: Obama Eats Here. Well, not anymore, but he used to. Good pizza, loaded salads, crazy shakes.
Valois: See your Food! Best lunch counter this side of the Allegheny.
DRINK
Get coffee at Backstory Café/Inspiration Station: Just south of campus, across the Midway. Very kid friendly, coffee, sandwiches and salads. To see a new community garden that Ben is working with, walk one block south to 62nd and Dorchester.
Woodlawn Tap: aka “Jimmy’s.” where the University drinks beer. You can almost smell the history... oh wait, that’s fried food.
SHOP
***If you love books, really really love them, it’s worth going to Hyde Park just to buy books.***
Seminary Co-op Bookstore: An acedemic’s paradise. Member owned, full of every academic book you could ever dream of in the basement of the Seminary. Overwhelming in a good way.
57th St. Books: The non-academic sister store of the Sem-Co-op. Mysteries, biographies and cookbooks galore.
Powell’s has a massive selection of used books, including many delightful surprises.
EXPLORE
U. Chicago Campus: See the gargoyles! In the winter, this place is pretty soul-crushing, but in summer it is totally gorgeous. Check out the pretty, high-ceilinged study room upstairs in Harper Hall. Grab a magazine, sit down and relax (something Dawn never gets to do here). (Yea sure, as if a stray wedding magazine never slipped in there, Dawn).
Smart Museum of Art: Cool architecture, central air, and well-curated art.
Hyde Park Art Center: Shiny and new.
FURTHER AFIELD...
Hot Doug’s: “The Sausage Superstore and Encased Meat Emporium”. To say this is better than your average Chicago dog is the understatement of the year. Do you like sausage? Go. 3324 North California, Chicago, IL 60618. 10:30-4:00, Mon-Sat.
Kuma’s Corner: HEAVY METAL BURGERS. “We’re not worthy!” You will wait. The music is totally abrasive. If an amazing burger is more important than your time or your eardrums, by all means, go.
M. Henry: Possibly our favorite breakfast/brunch. You can’t go wrong. 5707 North Clark Street.
Head to Devon Ave. for all your Indian and Pakistani food. We like Hema’s Kitchen at 2439 W Devon Ave
Garfield Park Conservatory: A big ol’ hundred year old botanical garden, this is a great outing with the kids. The Green Line goes right there. Get off at the Conservatory. 300 North Central Park Ave.
Oak Park: Frank Lloyd Wright mecca.
Baha’i Temple in Wilmette: 100 Linden Avenue, Wilmette. Just North of Chicago.
